Common Glaze Problems and How to Fix Them

TroubleshootingLogan, UtahSat Oct 17, 2026

Common Glaze Problems and How to Fix Them

Pinholes, crawling, shivering and crazing all look different, but none of them are random. Here is how to tell them apart, what usually causes each one, and where to start fixing it.

Small clay test tiles standing in rows to dry
Test tiles drying in rows. Every problem on this page should show up here first, not on finished work.
The short version

Most glaze defects come from one of two places: gas or application problems during firing (pinholing, crawling), or a fit problem between glaze and clay that shows up as they cool (shivering, crazing). Name the defect first, then change one variable at a time.

  • Pinholing: gas escaping through a glaze that has already started to seal
  • Crawling: glaze pulling away from the clay and leaving bare patches
  • Shivering and crazing: opposite glaze fit failures caused by thermal expansion

I fire to cone 10 in my studio in Logan, and high fire is honest. It gives glazes depth, but it also exposes every shortcut in the clay, the glaze and the schedule. I have written separate posts on each of these problems. This page is the map: what each one looks like, what usually causes it, and which post to read next.

How to tell them apart

ProblemWhat you seeUsual causeWhere to start
PinholingTiny craters in a surface that should be smoothClay gases escaping after the glaze starts to meltBisque high enough, slow the climb from about 1000 to 1600°F, measure thickness
CrawlingBare clay where the glaze pulled back into islandsDusty or oily bisque, too much shrinkage, glaze too thickClean bisque, even application, measured specific gravity
ShiveringSmall flakes of glaze popping off rims and feetGlaze expansion too low for the clay, so the glaze is over-compressedAdjust expansion, often with silica or flux balance, and test fit
CrazingFine crack lines in the glazeGlaze contracts more than the clay and ends up in tensionStress test, then adjust silica, alumina or flux balance

Pinholing

Pinholes are the marks left by gas pushing up through a glaze that has already started to seal. Clay bodies contain organics, sulfur compounds and carbonates that burn out mostly between roughly 1000°F and 1600°F. If the glaze is softening while that is still happening, the gas leaves tiny craters behind.

Four things usually decide it: the clay body and how high you bisqued it, how fast the glaze firing climbs through the burnout range, how thick the glaze went on, and whether the glaze chemistry is fluid enough to heal over small bubbles. A short hold at peak temperature can let some glazes smooth over. The full breakdown is in why your glaze is pinholing.

A glazed grey bowl drying on newspaper with other glazed pieces behind it
Glaze drying on bisque. Thickness is decided here, long before the kiln.
Close view inside a glazed cup showing a smooth, glossy amber and white surface
A clean, healed surface. This is the scale where pinholes show themselves.

Crawling

Crawling is glaze pulling away from the clay during firing and leaving bare patches. It is usually decided before the kiln is even loaded, by how well the glaze bonded to the bisque as it dried.

Dust and oil from hands stop glaze from bonding. A glaze with a lot of clay in it can shrink so much as it dries that it lifts. Thick layers crawl more easily because more material means more shrinkage and more stress. Clean bisque, an even coat and a measured thickness prevent most of it. Read more in crawling and shivering: why glazes fail.

Shivering

Shivering is the more serious fit problem. The clay contracts more than the glaze as it cools, the glaze ends up squeezed too hard, and it flakes off at rims and foot rings. That is structural failure, not surface variation, and on functional ware it can leave sharp edges.

The cause is a thermal expansion mismatch: the glaze expansion is too low for the clay body. The fix is chemistry, often more silica or a change in flux balance, plus slightly rounded rims, since sharp edges concentrate stress. Shivering can take weeks to appear, which is why it needs testing, not a single look out of the kiln.

A hand scrubbing the foot of a bisque fired bowl with a green scouring pad
Scrubbing a bisque foot. Clean surfaces are the first defense against crawling.
Close view of pale blue glaze running over a brown surface near the foot of a tumbler
Rims and feet are where fit problems show first.

Crazing

Crazing is the opposite of shivering. The glaze contracts more than the clay as it cools, ends up in tension and cracks into fine lines. It can appear right out of the kiln, hours later or after weeks of use.

A crazed glaze is not automatically unsafe, but it can stain over time, so it does not belong on ware meant for daily use. Cone 10 can reduce some crazing because clay bodies vitrify more fully, but it does not fix an expansion mismatch. Fit gets adjusted through silica, alumina or flux balance, not a different firing schedule.

How I test glaze fit before production

Every glaze I use is tested on the clay body it will go on before it goes near production. These are the tests from how to actually test for crazing and shivering:

  • Hot and cold cycle. Boiling water in a finished test piece for a minute, then straight into cold water. Repeat a few times and look closely.
  • The marker. Draw over the glaze with a permanent marker and wipe it off. Ink left in hairline cracks means crazing.
  • Edges. Run a finger along rims and foot rings and look for flakes lifting.
  • Time. Test pieces stay in rotation through dishwasher cycles, microwave reheats and daily use, so I know the fit is stable long after the first firing.

Where to start when something goes wrong

  • Name the defect using the table above before changing anything.
  • Check the boring things first: clean bisque, glaze thickness, specific gravity, dip time.
  • Look at the firing: is the bisque high enough, and is the glaze firing racing through burnout?
  • If it is a fit problem, it is chemistry. Adjust the glaze, then retest on tiles.

Related problems and background: why consistency starts with measurement (specific gravity and dip time), why pots crack after firing, why plates warp, why I fire to cone 10 and the 7 stages of clay. To see how the glazes I use behave, look at Numoku, iron red and salt.

A Simple Tip

Keep a firing log. Write down the clay body, the glaze bucket, its specific gravity, the dip time and the firing schedule for every load, and put a labeled test piece in each one. When a defect shows up, the log tells you what changed.

Further reading: Digitalfire's reference pages on pinholing, glaze crawling, glaze shivering, glaze crazing and glaze fit.

Most glaze problems are not mysteries. They are systems problems, and systems can be fixed. If a glaze does not fit the clay body, it does not move forward in my studio.

Shop current work at Adam Corbridge PotteryAdam Corbridge
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Why Plates Warp and How to Prevent It